Cleaning and maintenance.
I make my own leather conditioner with beeswax, olive oil, avocado oil and citrus fruit essence. The wax fights moisture, the citrus essence gives a pleasant odor and the oil keeps the leather supple and prevents it from drying and cracking. The honey I use comes from the island of Thassos in the north of Greece, while the olive oil and citrus extract are custom-made products and come from olive gardens and farms near Athens. This wax I make is also very good for the hands. There is no risk of poisoning, it is totally natural. You can buy a special wax for wood, which has separate components than the wax destined for leather.
Of course, my products are designed to reflect the wear and tear of everyday life and to mature with age. Should you wish to retain their fresh look for as long as possible, please do follow the maintenance guidelines given below. There are four main stages in leather care: cleaning, conditioning, polishing, and protection.
leather
Cleaning
To clean a leather item, you must first select a cleanser that will help preserve the natural lubricating oils of the product, rather than strip it off of them. For example, saddle soap is a commonly used product for equestrian tacks. It is supposed to be used as a cleanser and protector from damp; however, it strips the leather off of its natural grease when trying to clean and moisturize at the same time. The cleanser you choose should not leave any greasy residues as this makes the leather vulnerable to bacteria and can harm the stitching of your product.
Before application, test it out for possible effects and colour changes on an area that isn’t visible. For areas with stitches, there are special brushes available on the market. But if you ask me, an old toothbrush can do the job very well. Another cleaning product to consider having in your leather care collection is a nubuck/suede cleaning cloth. They have an astonishing ability to clean and restore leather to its original look.
Conditioning
Use leather conditioners occasionally. Conditioners contain fats and/or oils which lubricate and replenish the product’s suppleness. Ideally, it should be an agent that will penetrate the strong fibres of leather. Beware of any conditioners that include petroleum or mineral oils. While petroleum by-products won’t damage your leather immediately, they will do so in the long run. Thick, greasy conditioning treatments are the best care for your leather.
Polishing
Beware of products that contain colouring agents as they may brush-off on things your product comes into contact with. Some products also do have a tendency to clog leather pores or dry it out. Just as with cleaning, be sure to test out the product in a small area prior to application.
Soaked Leather
If your product gets soaked, the key is to treat wet leather before it gets dry. Carefully remove any dirt, mud, or other stain with an efficient cleaning agent, and condition while the pores are still responsive. The leather should then be left to dry away from heat.
Leather Scratches
Real leather scratches. That’s just a fact of life. These scratches accumulate over time, soften with use, and develop into a rich patina that tells your bag’s life story. While some scratching is a good thing as it adds to the patina, heavy scratches can leave unpleasant marks that don’t go away very fast.
My leather wax is very good for lightening scratches and sometimes even removing them entirely, depending on their depth and their damage on the leather. Gentle rubbing with a soft cloth dabbed in some conditioning oil can treat some of the scratches. There are also other steps you can take that we will touch upon in a future post.
Leather Storage
Since leather is a natural material, it should never be stored in a plastic container because plastic encourages the growth of mildew and bacteria that will ruin the leather. Instead, store the leather in a cool, dry place away from heat.
Stain Removal
Fresh stains can be cleansed quickly with a damp cloth. Oil or grease stains can be erased by scouring the material with ordinary blackboard chalk, by sprinkling the area, and by leaving the powder on for twenty-four hours. DO NOT give in to the urge to rub the powder off. Remove the dust with a leather care product. While fresh stains can be treated and cleansed at home, settled dry stains should be attended to by a professional.
wood
Clean
Use a damp cloth or paper towel to wipe the board with a small amount of vinegar and water to loosen any leftover food residue and disinfect the board.
Deodorize
Sprinkle coarse sea salt all over the board. I will often let the salt sit overnight so it can draw out any lingering bacteria.
Cut a lemon in half and use each piece to work the salt around the board. Be sure to juice the lemon as you are scrubbing. Let the lemon juice/salt mixture sit on your board for 5-10 minutes before wiping away with a damp cloth.
Condition
Apply Dodo’s Wax® to the board with a dry cloth. If you are saying that I should lubricate the board with an oil in the house: Apply the mineral oil on the chair with a soft cloth (walnut oil and almond oil are good alternatives, but stay away from olive or vegetable oils because they turn the smell quickly). Make sure that you wipe the board with the grain to condition all areas, including the edges, and also the back of the board.
Result
If you are using mineral oil: Press the oil plate with a dry cloth. I use an old cotton t-shirt cloth! If you have used Dodo’s Wax®: just wait a night for the board after a while. You can start using your board the next day.
